Tips to help in a smooth rebuild
|Hardware 1||Bag and tag every nut, bolt,
bracket, swtich, wire, sensor, Oring & seal. I used those ziplock bags
and I had a sheet of sticky labels that I used to list the contents. You
can use a piece of paper in the bag with the bolts but if the bolts are
oily when you put them in the bag the paper may turn translucent and
become unreadable (of course I learned this the hard way). You'll
appreciate this many times later on and the time saved will be great. I
kept my bags of hardware in a 12"x12" box - it was big enough to
take all of the hardware.
|Cleaning||I used Castrol Super clean from
Walmart, it comes in a purple plastic bottle of several litres. Its so
good it will clean the skin right off your hands - use gloves. I put it in
a spray bottle and sprayed parts, then usually let them soak for about 15
minutes before scrubbing with a tooth brush or whatever. This stuff
cleaned all of the brown tarnish from inside my motor as well as all of
the gunk off the outside. The stuff then rinses off in water (spray steel
parts with WD-40, especially hardware or else you'll be spending a lot of
time cleaning the threads on your bolts later on)
|Tapping||One thing I hate is nuts &
bolts that don't go together easily. When I had the block stripped down
and mostly clean I took to all of the studs and threaded holes with my tap
and die set M6/M8/M10 and a few M12 covers everything. If you do this and
any heli-coils all at once then you'll only need to give the block one
thorough decontamination of metal filings.
I also spent a lot of time wire brushing (bead blasting is even better) threads on the loose bolts etc, this makes assembling the engine and any future work a please when it all goes together easily.
|Hardware 2||I also replaced a bunch of
hardware and used stainless steel hardware where coolant was involved or
where Tensile strength was not an issue (stainless steel has less tensile
strength than regular grade 8 hardware)
I also took a bunch of the uncommon hardware and brackets etc to an electroplater to have the stuff coated in yellow zinc (Zinc dichromate - I think). Anything you want to get coated will probably need to be bead blasted first (Thanks James B) to remove anything that would prevent the zinc from depositing on the surface.
|Gaskets & Sealants||I used a razor blade at 90 degrees to scrape all gasket
surfaces and this resulted in a nice flat finish. I also used 600 grit
sand paper with a rubber block to sand the top of the engine block where
the cylinder head mates to it.
I got the large tube of Loctite 574 from Vertex and only ended up using a small quantity of it - use a small (2-3 inch wide) felt like roller to apply it to the surfaces where required (balance shaft covers, oil pump and crankcase lower section).
I used the loctite website to locate a supplier of loctite products near me. I used that supplier to obtain loctite 271 (in place of 270) and 262.
Curil T is what the factory specs for sealing the oil cooler and since many people have leaks in that area I decided to go with the factory spec sealant (ordered it from Performance Products.)
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