No Shortage of Problems

As I got further and further into checking my car I found many things were completely broken or in need of repair. I have listed them here for my own reference as well as for anyone else that might want to know what sort of things to look out for.

 

Air Flow Meter This was worn out and causing idle problems. 
Throttle position switch The switch was broken
Blow off valve The diaphragm was perforated
Vacuum switch Had been bypassed due to a broken connector
Vacuum plumbing  This appeared to be pretty much random
Coolant hoses One had a significant leak
Oil Leaks There were quite a few of these, a couple were from worn seals and others were from bolts which had sheared off and hence were not clamping parts together as they were supposed to. As mentioned elsewhere the oil leaks had a tendency to drip onto the crossover pipe and produce smoke.
Clutch When I pulled the clutch out it was working but at its wear limits. When I cleaned the clutch fork bearings they disintegrated. The clutch fork pivot shaft also showed wear marks at the point that the fork bearings contact it (common apparently)
Sway Bars The front sway bar bushings had mostly fallen apart, the front sway bar ends were dislodged from the bushing on one side. The rear sway bar was also dislodged from its bushing on one end.
Shocks In poor shape, they allowed the car to bottom out at the front under some conditions. I since managed to buy a new set of  front & rear Koni yellows, and will most likely replace the springs with 250lbs units.
Power Mirrors Neither worked and one had a broken mounting for the glass, one also had a broken internal fitting that did not allow the mirror to pivot on its post. The wiring to the mirrors had been cut and then twisted back together and wrapped in tape.
Radiator Did not leak but was warped a good 25mm and had been solder repaired.
Valve spring One was broken, most showed some signs of surface pitting and it was recommended to me (By James Bricken) to replace them all (which I have done)
Scored Cylinder As can be seen from the pics on the other page, the cylinder scores definitely require attention in the rebuild. Since new oversized pistons are expensive ($1700 US) and hard to find, I looked at the possibility of using custom forged pistons. After doing some research I found that It was not recommended to buy custom pistons and use them in non sleeved oversize bores. The reason being that the tolerances on the original pistons were very tight - this was possible due to the material used to make the pistons (low thermal expansion characteristics especially when combined with the Porsche piston coating). Aftermarket custom forged pistons are not overly expensive (compared to most Porsche parts) but due to their construction they have different thermal expansion characteristics which would require excessively large piston to wall clearance to accommodate the piston as it heats up. As I discovered, all of the manufacturers that offer custom forged pistons for 944 engines, offer them with steel sleeves inserted in the bores. I was a bit dubious about steel sleeves from the outset  and so I wanted to find out more about them, particularly about the long term viability of the sleeves remaining properly fixed in place. Some aftermarket parts sellers suggested that sleeves could start to dislodge after 5000mi.  I also heard that some of the biggest names in aftermarket Porsche performance/racing engines were using sleeves and it was implied that for that reason they must be ok. I searched the boards for anyone that had had sleeves installed and asked the question "How were the sleeves going after the 5000mi point ?" Only one person said they had sleeves installed and he had had them for only 1000mi or so. When I thought about the Porsche racers using sleeves it occurred to me that a 5000mi life on the sleeves would not be an issue for them since those motors can be pulled and re-sleeved at the end of the season etc. However I have no plans on pulling my own motor out every 5000mi to re-sleeve it. In the absence of any evidence that the sleeves do have a long term life I elected to go the way of new Porsche first oversize pistons & rebored block. I was fortunate enough to track down a set of 1st oversize pistons from Powerhaus. As many of you will be aware the bores of the 944 block are specially treated. However it is not rocket science, after the blocks are bored they  are honed with special stones and paste which leaves the desired finish (Alusil finish). It is a documented commercial process (its in the workshop manuals actually)  that can be done by knowledgeable engine machinists. Some other manufactures do use the same process - Mercedes I think. Since it is just a honing process its not ridiculously expensive. 
Airbag Warning system The master caution light is on continuously - I haven't resolved the actual cause yet.
Power steering hose This was sitting hard up against the headers and almost melted through when I bought the car.
Heat shields Most of these were missing - of course i didn't know this until I looked at other peoples cars and noticed parts that mine did not have.
Fuel rail Had cracks around the point where the brackets attach to it. These had been gooped up. DEFINITELY replace this item unless you want an engine fire.
DME Turned out to be faulty.
Clock Broken - as many seem to be.
Switches several console switches were broken or had faded decals
Center cassette box Missing its lid
Map pockets Missing - I tracked down some late model pockets to replace these - So now I have pockets with the speaker enclosures under the door arm rest.
Seat belts Passenger side seat belt receptacle was mounted on the wrong side of the seat (what kind of idiot owned this car before me ?)
Front bumper cover Cracked around drivers indicator, and had been modified at the front - underneath the license plate.
Body Headlights misaligned, passenger frame rail damaged, radiator surrounds damaged, front bumper shock damaged, front valence panel dented, hood leading edge bent. Plastic trim which runs along kick panel was missing. All under engine aerodynamic covers were missing. Stone guards were painted over and crazed. Over-spray from the last paint job was evident in a few places on the car
AC condensor missing (AC wasn't very cool)
AC compressor mount The adjuster bar had been replaced with a couple of crappy pieces of metal welded together.
Wiring loom Much of the wiring at the front of the car near the frame rail major earthing points had been fried, this mainly affected the front lighting and AC wiring, but necessitated a large portion of the front wiring loom being replaced.
Radiator fans 1 of the 2 had a bad bearing and would stick.
Heater Had the very common broken plastic link which allows full hot air to pour into the cabin regardless of the climate control settings.
Sunroof Had the common sheared plastic gears (both sides).
Headers Header pipes 2&3 were obviously cracked at the manifold at some point. Previous owner had attempted to save money by having his pet cat carry out the welding repairs. Quality of welding was consistent with welding ability of pet cat.
Exhaust gaskets I didn't discover this until I pulled the engine out but most of the (many) exhaust gaskets were missing
Catalytic converter Was blocked. This was one of the many things that was having an impact on how well the car would boost.
Stereo Did not work (improperly wired)
Headliner Was coming away in several places and was also missing several pieces of trim
Cargo cover Missing.

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