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DIY Porsche 996 Engine drop & IMS upgrade

Last Updated 28 Dec 2010

Details applicable for UK 1999 996 Manual with GT-3 side skirts

My 99 996 is expected to be a keeper so I have elected to go down the path of doing an IMS upgrade for peace of mind and whilst I am in there I will do a number of other jobs. I take the view that doing these jobs for myself as DIY projects saves me money in the long run and by doing them as pre-emptive maintenance they contribute to ongoing hassle free enjoyment of the car rather than an ongoing series of expensive headaches. In the process of doing these jobs, I also get to learn a few things about the car and I get the opportunity to check the condition of some mechanical items along the way.

What follows is information regarding the jobs I did along with tools used and parts details as well as observations I made along the way.

Jobs done

Coolant tank & cap replacement

Replaced AOS

Replaced transmission oil (Swepco 201 2.7L)

Replace corroded spring hose clips with SS Norma clamps

Clean earthing points & replace earth strap

Replace clutch, pressure plate & bearing

Checked flywheel

Upgrade IMS

Replace RMS

Replace case bolts

Check spark plugs

Powder coat various parts

Install magnetic oil  drain plug

Change engine oil & filter

Install RS Engine mounts

Replace coil pack heat shields

Fix front oil leak  (AOS vent on RHS head).

Replace rear heat shield brackets

Check reversing lamps (not working prior to engine removal)

Degrease engine bay

Replace corroded shifter link bracket & misc brackets.

Replace seals on tensioners, AOS lines, manifold gaskets.

 

Tools.

I used an ATV Jack and a transmission scissor jack to lower the engine.

I used a combination of 1 x trolley jack and 2 x scissor jacks to get the car raised onto 4 jack stands.

I used some 4" x 4" wooden blocks during the car raising and engine lowering process.

Breaker bar 1/2" drive

Multiple extension bars in both 3/8" and 1/2" drive

M8mm allen head socket on 3/8" drive for CV bolts

M10 12point (cheese head) driver for transmission flange bolt

10mm allen head socket for oil drain plugs on engine and transaxle (some transaxles use a different drain plug)

Torx bit for flywheel bolts (T55)

12 point cheese head driver (M10) for 1 transaxle flange bolt.

Torx bits for some plastic belly pan screws and bumper screws

Wire brush & liquid wrench to clean and lubricate exposed threads prior to bolt removal.

Two sets of metric wrenches (several times you need a pair of wrenches of the same size and a socket will not do)

Metric socket set from 9mm up to 24mm (& 1 1/4"), deep 19mm socket for engine mount bolts, 3/8" universal joint

Long reach flexible hose clamp pliers

Clutch alignment tool

TDC Locking pin (5/16 steel rod)

Torque wrenches (small & large)

Magnetic pick up,  small mirror (helpful for rear AC bolt)

Catch cans for oil/water, oil filter removal tool

Syringe / extraction pump to drain power steering fluid

Screw drivers / pliers / work light,

IMS Tools, plus flange sealant & thread locker

 

 

Parts

Manifold gaskets 996 110 247 50 $5.72 ea

Shifter clips 996 424 241 00 2x10.46 (Model year dependant)

Shifter bracket 996 424 165 02 $12.95   bolts are m10x20x2

Chain tensioner sealing rings 900 123 147 30 (x2) $0.82

AOS Oring at RHS Head vent 999 707 154 40 (x1)

AOS vent line O-rings 999 707 446 40 x 4

AOS Lower bellows clip 999 512 630 00 (doesn't come supplied with a new AOS)

Trans bolt 70 mm 999 072 008 09 $4.09 (3)

Bellhousing nut/bolt 900 378 061 09 $4.05

Cross member upper bolt 900 378 139 09 1.95 (4) M12 Wide Flange bolts

M12 wide flange nuts 999 084 445 09 (4) 1.34

Accessory belt

M6 stainless socket heads screws for coil packs (aftermarket)

M6 stainless socket head screws for oil cooler M6x18 (aftermarket)

Plug bracket near AOS 996 607 105 00 $7.48

Earth strap 99660703000 $23.00

RMS

Clutch kit

Coolant tank & cap

oil cooler o-rings 26x3 999 707 409 40 2

oil cooler o-rings 35x4 999 707 389 40 2

AOS 996 107 023 54

Oil plug sealing ring 900 123 106 30

coolant sealing ring  900 123 144 30

Updated case bolts 999 385 004 09 (4)

plastic nuts 999 049 022 40 (5)

Plastic Rivets 999 507 497 40  

Flywheel bolts T55 Torx 999 073 092 09 (8)

Consumables (oil, coolant, filter, pentosin, shop towel, disposable nitrile gloves)

 

     

 

Procedure Used (Still in draft)

 

This guide should be read in conjunction with the factory workshop manual procedure which can be downloaded here (note there are some pages out of sequence in the manual but they are all there)

Loosen wheel nuts

Lower driver / passenger windows 1"

disconnect battery

(remove trims around jacking point on non side skirt cars)

Jack car & place on axle stands (Height approx 720)

Remove center and rear underbody trays (torx / plastic nuts & 1 plastic rivet)

Remove rear wheels

Remove rear bumper

Remove side heat shields

Remove rear heat shield (Removing the alloy bumper takes care of this)

Drain oil if necessary (replace sealing ring)

Remove cap from coolant reservoir

Drain coolant via coolant drain plug

Remove air filter box by unplugging MAF connector, loosening the hose clamp at the throttle body and undoing the 13mm bolt near the hood latch. Lift out air cleaner assembly.

Unplug all the oxygen sensors (pull up on red tabs then separate plugs)

Disconnect the RHS large coolant hose at the upper clamp where it connects to the RHS coolant hard pipe.

Disconnect the LHS lower coolant pipe underneath the water pump pulley.

Disconnect the two coolant pipes near the oil filter.

Disconnect the large LHS coolant pipe at it's upper connection to the hard pipe.

Open the power steering reservoir and drain as much fluid as possible using a suction pump/syringe. Then undo the retaining bolt. Rotate the plastic bayonet lock ring in a counter clockwise direction to unlock it then withdraw the power steering fluid reservoir. Plug the exposed cavity with a small clean lint free rag.

Unbolt the earthing cable from its connection point adjacent to the power steering fluid reservoir. Undo the bolts to the plastic housing over the earthing point connection.

Mark the direction of travel of the drive belt

Rotate the drive belt tensioner clockwise with a 24mm socket to remove tension, then remove drive belt.

Undo the AC  compressor front mount bolts (Note use an open ended wrench for the RHS bolt)

Disconnect the two large engine wiring loom connectors (RHS) by rotating the locking ring anti clockwise.

At the upper LHS of the engine bay, remove the light grey locking ring from the brake booster  connection, then simultaneously withdraw the hose whilst pulling back the connector sleeve in the opposite direction (The sleeve can only move once the grey ring is removed)

Disconnect the tank vent line (upper LHS of engine bay) by squeezing both of the light grey tabs and simultaneously withdrawing the line.

Undo both fuel lines taking care to counter hold the fuel rail hexagonal sections before loosening the fuel line nuts.

At the rear anti roll bar, undo the drop link connections from the roll bar at both sides.

Undo the roll bar saddles bolts and remove the roll bar.

Remove the diagonal braces

Remove the front & rear braces. (Note that the rear brace upper bolts do not have to be removed, they just need to be loosened and the rear brace can then be slid downwards once the lower bolts are removed.

Undo the rear axle CV joints at the transaxle. (ensure the 10mm hex sockets are completely clean and socket driver is fully seated in the socket before attempting to loosen each bolt) Rotate a pair of bolts to the upper position then lock the axle using the park brake. (this is when you open the car door and it's helpful to have the window lowered in order to fully close the door)

Undo the earthing cable at the engine block lower RHS adjacent to the coil pack.

 

To be continued:

 

Loosen lug nuts

disconnect battery

Jack car - WARNING sideways motion may occur during jacking/lowering and may result in the vehicle collapsing off the jacks and stands.

I use a very incremental process of raising the car a  bit at a time and checking that all stands/jacks are in a safe condition before raising/lowering further.

Considering you will be working under the car you really want to get this right & safe.

 

I jack the car from the designated jacking point in front of t he rear wheel arch and then place an axle stand under the end of the rear cross brace. As the car approaches maximum jack height I use a scissor jack to momentarily take the load under the rear cross brace whilst I transfer the axle stand to the designated jacking point.

Once the car is on the stands the wheels are removed and the underbody trays are removed.

Note My car had side GT-3 side skirts so I didn't need to remove the rear trims around the jack points. On standard cars I believe the trims need to be removed to gain access to bolts for the angle braces.

The underbody trays are held in place by a plastic rivet and plastic nuts (some of which will be stripped so order 5 new ones before starting). The rivet is removed by extracting the centre pin and then the remainder of the rivet can be withdrawn. The trays themselves are fairly brittle.

After undoing the lower coolant pipe/drain plug, undo the upper coolant pipes on the right/left hand side, then undo the lower rear coolant pipes as well. There is a special ratchet plier with a flexible neck which will hold these clamps open and makes this job much easier. The hose clamps for the bigger hoses are pretty hefty so the tool needs to be a quality tool. Use a dedicated tool or flat blade screwdriver inserted between the hose and its pipe to start them separating.  Using a belt looped under the hose can provide extra leverage on some of the bigger hoses. 

The front AC bolts are easy enough, just don't make the mistake of using a non reversing ratchet wrench which happens to contact the manifold before the bolt is fully undone (and then can't be backed off!).

After draining the coolant, drain the engine oil/replace the filter and install a new sealing ring on the drain plug. I took the opportunity to install an LN engineering magnetic drain plug at this time.

The grey C plastic clip needs to be removed before the brake booster line can be pulled apart. Once the clip is removed a portion of the elbow is pulled in the opposite direction whilst the hose is pulled away from the elbow. The tank vent undoes easily by squeezing the grey plastic tabs.

The engine wiring harnesses are readily undone by rotating the locking collars anti clockwise.

The first pic shows the drive axle M8 allen head bolts being undone using long extensions to situate the ratchet in the wheel well area. My breaker bar was too long to use in the wheel well so I extended the length of the ratchet handle as shown. Ensure the allen head driver is fully inserted and that the allen heads are free of gunk as these bolts are easily stripped if your not careful. Undo the two uppermost bolts at a time, lock them in place by applying the park brake.

The upper cross member bolts are exposed to the elements so may be gunked up as this pic shows. Note that the upper bolts don't have to be removed (just loosen them). The cross member can be dropped away once the lower bolts are removed. You need to use wrenches on the LHS so use extra leverage as shown if needed.

 

Here the clutch slave cylinder bolts are readily visible once the transmission & engine have been partially lowered. I undid the lower bolt using extension bars to situate the ratchet near the brake disc, then I lowered the engine/transmission a few more inches and undid the upper bolt using the same method. This took about 10 mins and is definitely one of the benefits of lowering the engine & trans together.

These pics show the hard to get at rear AC bolt (first slide the temperature sensor away from the manifold - towards the side of the car), the second pic show the angle to get to the bolt and this step should be done once the engine is lowered if possible. Finally a magnetic tool is a great way to lift the bolt clear and keep it out of the way while you pull the compressor free of the block.

The power steering lines are also easy to do with the engine lowered. (Counter hold the rear-most section  and undo the forward nut)

 

This is the casing over the accelerator cable connection, once the casing halves are unclipped the accelerator cable is readily slipped out of its matching union.

My car was 25mm too low to pull the motor out so I removed the manifold & throttle to provide additional clearance. This was easy enough, just make a note of the vacuum connections under the LHS manifold. There is also a plastic bracket near the front of the RHS manifold, remove its retaining nut in order to provide clearance to remove the RHS manifold.

This pic shows the height that the engine was at whilst I did the AC, power steering lines and clutch slave cylinder.

 

 

 

My ATV jack couldn't quite reach the engine with the car jacked this high so I used a pair of 100mmx100mm blocks between the engine and the ATV jack.

To get the engine out from under the car the wooden blocks have to be removed. This was accomplished by  lowering the engine onto more wooden blocks under the headers to take the weight whilst the jack was lowered further and the original wooden blocks were removed. The ATV jack was then raised again to take the weight of the motor and all wooden blocks were then removed.

 

Pic with red circle & arrow shows the 2 through bolts which are most likely to be the difficult ones to remove. The circle shows where a chunk of my engine case broke away during the bolt removal. The following couple of pics show the engine subsequently being taken away to be repaired by Gantspeed Engineering. According to my workshop this is not an uncommon occurrence in their experience with these two bolts in particular due to them being through bolts where the end threads pick up corrosion and increase pressure on the block /threads as they are being removed.

The chunk was welded back in place and a helicoil installed. The bolt below it was removed with some partially stripped threads so a helicoil was installed in the block there too.

With the transmission off the flywheel was checked and within limits according to the TSB.

With the flywheel removed the RMS can be seen to be quite dry but the IMS has been leaking. With the IMS cover removed the IMS bearing is visible.

The engine is now locked at TDC with a 5/16 steel rod and the two chain tensioners are removed using a 1 1/4" socket. (New sealing rings should be used when they are replaced - mine were pretty nasty.)

 

At TDC a notch in the back face of the pulley lines up with a mark on the block and the teardrop shaped hole in the pulley lines up with a 5/16th hole behind the pulley.

IMS bearing puller screwed onto stud and the IMS bearing pulled completely into the tool. It was more or less wedged into the tool with the old retaining clip so I knocked it out using a socket extension bar through the hole left by the threaded section after I removed the threaded section. That did not require too much force.

Old IMS bearing with seals and bearing cage removed. Both seals were in-tact when I got to the bearing. Internally it looks fine with no visible signs of pitting or other wear to the bearings or the races.

 

IMS bearing is attached to the seating tool, it's held to the end of the tool with the IMS stud nut. The bearing is then driven into the IMS tube by tapping the end of the tool with a nylon hammer. I found it helpful to paint a small white line on the edge of the tool with correction fluid so I could observe the movement of the tool as I tapped it in.

Here the upgraded IMS bearing has been installed and in my case with a double row bearing it uses a spiro-loc to retain it in place. The spiro-loc is installed by opening up the spiro-loc into a helix and then holding one end in place and progressively moving further around the helix pressing more of it into the recess until the entire spiro-loc has been installed. Your finger will trace about two full circles around the IMS bearing cavity as you press the spiro-loc into place.

During the flange install put a socket & extension bar on the end of the stud nut and apply some leverage to align the IMS with the centre of the cavity so that  the flange can be installed without damaging the flange seal.

I sealed the stud threads with thread sealant (loctite 290) and used flange sealant (Loctite 574) on the nut and flange bolts.

Pic shows depth of original RMS. Despite it being dry I elected to replace the RMS due to its age/mileage. The RMS was pulled out by drilling a 2.5mm hole in it and then screwing in a self tapping screw. I then pulled out the RMS by pulling on the screw with a set of pliers.

The new RMS is installed dry with particular care being needed to ensure that it remains perfectly square to the crank whilst it is being installed as there are many reported cases of new RMSs leaking due to improper installation.

The other pics show it's starting to get cold! This is definitely the first time I have been doing subzero wrenching.

I took the cross braces and a few other bits away and had them powder coated. I have also started doing a bit of wire brushing to scrub away some of the surface crud off some of the suspension components. Part of my logic for pulling out the motor was to fix a lot of things but it was also partly to allow me to clean up/replace a lot of the corroded hardware before it gets any worse. Obviously the powder coating is preserving those parts but other parts will be treated with gold galv &/or sealed with Bilt Hamber Ferrosol / S-50 Dynax sealant wax as appropriate once they have been installed. The idea being to make the car easier to work on in the future.

I'll be applying silicone grease to the sway bar bushings during assembly.

The main oil leak on my engine was not the IMS/RMS it was located at the 'front' RHS and was emanating from the AOS breather hose which attaches to the head There are two Orings - one on the AOS hose and one on the plastic fitting which bolts to the head. The o-ring on the plastic fitting seemed worn as the fitting was almost loose in the head (once the bolt was undone) rather than snug.

- Update, even with a new O-ring this component is still a bit of a loose fit and I am thinking of replacing the standard o-ring with a thicker item to reduce the chances of oil vapour leaks in this area.

Plug condition was OK but this bracket near the AOS was toast and a replacement was ordered - this will  provide a much better ground for the electrics that use this as an earth point.

During the plug extraction I had the misfortune to have the rubber insert from my spark plug tool dislodge from the socket and get stuck on the plug. That doesn't seem like a big issue at first except that somehow it stopped the spark plug socket from being able to seat on the hex nut portion of the spark plug and I subsequently discovered I couldn't extract the spark plug and remove the rubber! This was definitely a WTF! moment. I messed around with it for some time and tried cutting it with an exacto knife but in the end a suitably modified wire coat hanger did the trick (special tool 666 £0)

Clutch release lever and the release bearing which slides right off. Second pic is the lever cleaned up and the new release bearing in place. Note: Do not grease the guide tube that the bearing slides over. Optimol Longtime 3EP, is a 'sticky' grease used on the release arm ball/pivot points and also a bit where the slave cylinder rod contacts the release arm. Rather than buying a tub of this specialised grease I asked my workshop to provide me with a dollop of the stuff along with a parts order I had given them.

For the input shaft splines I used the sachet of "Spline lube" that came with the new OEM clutch kit. I had read that input shaft splines do not need lubricating but the inclusion of the sachet of lube with the kit suggested otherwise. So I did some researching and found this method prescribed by another clutch OEM (Schaeffler automotive group) Lubricate input shaft splines with a small amount of high-temperature grease. Slide the disc onto the input shaft splines to distribute a thin film. Remove the disc and wipe away any excess lubricant prior to installation.

Here are a couple of pics of the old clutch which was working fine by the way - being compared to the new clutch. I'm not sure of the mileage on it but it had a 2002 date stamp on it and as my car is a 99 I guess it's not original. The friction plate mounts in the orientation shown and a clutch alignment tool is used to center the friction plate prior to it being clamped in place by the pressure plate (thrust plate in Porsche lingo). Finally a pic of the completely assembled clutch. **Check  the workshop manual for the correct procedure to tighten the pressure plate bolts.

 

Having checked all the plugs by this time, I installed new heat shields as the originals were heavily corroded and new ones are cheap at around £12 each. Being mindful to keep the wife happy I also elected to lend a hand with the dishes. Then it was back to the task at hand. It cost £30 or so for six intake manifold gaskets but I'd rather pay that than deal with vacuum leak issues related to a poorly sealed manifold with 12 year old o-rings.

These diagrams show the vacuum connections that are not so obvious when the engine is assembled. Note that the connections shown are for a UK 99 manual with no air pump fitted. US cars with air pumps will have additional plumbing in this area.

VACUUM INTERCONNECTIONS

UK cars - no air pump ->

<- US Cars with air pumps (pic from Pelican parts)

RS Engine Mounts as supplied by Carnewal. These are the factory 964 rubber RS mounts (PN 964 375 043 80  with bolts to suit the 996) to replace the hydraulic standard mounts. The goal is to reduce unwanted engine  movement and it's undesirable effects on balance and gear shifting.

Pentosin CHF 202 is a synthetic high performance hydraulic fluid for life-time applications in modern vehicles. This fluid supercedes the Pentosin CHF11S, and is applicable to all Porsche 993, 996, 997, 980, 955 vehicles with convertible tops, power steering, self leveling suspensions, etc. Consult your owner's manual for details, capacities, etc. Appearance green, clear (Note can be mixed with CHF11S)

In the UK this stuff can be hard to find. I got some from monkfish / promax performance. LINK I used an ebay search for CHF 202 to find it.-  £26 delivered.

Part of my philosophy has been to make working on the car in future years easier so I have taken the approach of replacing corroded hardware with stainless steel hardware. I've noted that some hardware on the engine corrodes more than others and as can be seen from these pics I have replaced the hardware for the oil cooler, coil packs and coil pack heat shields. The transmission shifter cable bracket was also pretty corroded so it was binned and replaced.

The shifter cable ends were also pretty corroded so they were cleaned up and treated with a cold galvanising paint. I replaced the earthing lead with a new one as I had noted that the terminal crimp of the original earthing lead was somewhat loose. I cleaned up the earthing point and coated the joint with copper based grease as a preventative measure against corrosion as previous experience with older cars (944s) has shown that poor earth connections lead to a wide variety of electrical issues.

 

While I had the engine out I noted that there was a minor rust spot on the rear frame - the elements had taken their toll on a spot weld and surface rust had set in. A bit of sanding with 180 grit paper and 3 coats of cold galvanising paint have nipped this problem in the bud.

 

Since I had the manifolds off the motor it was a good opportunity to take a peek at the valves to see if there was any build up of carbon on the backs of the valves. As can bee seen from the pic (all cylinders were the same) the valves were in pretty good shape.

 

Re-installation - Slave cylinder

As I learned from the engine removal it is far easier to deal with the clutch slave cylinder and AC when the engine is low (ie lowered out of the engine bay). For the clutch slave cylinder Porsche recommends pushing the slave cylinder in far enough to insert a pin through the lower bolt hole and then installing the upper bolt. This approach is fine but it still takes a fair effort to push the slave cylinder in far enough to be able to insert a pin through the lower bolt hole. This can be done single handedly but this was the only part of the whole job where I engaged an assistant to help - I got under the car and pushed the slave cylinder into place and my assistant inserted a 5mm pin into the lower bolt hole while I pressed in the slave cylinder. (The pin was a 5mm hex socket on the end of several 3/8 extension bars so that the assistant could place the pin whilst kneeling in the wheel arch area) With the pin in place it was simple to install the upper bolt. With the upper bolt in place it was easy to remove the lower pin and install a bolt in it's place. Tip - just be sure that the slave cylinder pushrod is properly seated in the clutch arm and that the slave cylinder boot is securely attached before attempting to seat/position the slave cylinder.

Re-installation - AC Compressor

As I had taken off the intake manifolds in order to obtain clearance for removing the engine from the car I reinstalled the AC compressor before reinstalling the manifolds. This really made the AC installation very simple. It didn't make re-installation of the manifolds any more difficult either.

 

Re-installation - Manifolds

I positioned the RHS first, inserted all six bolts but only screwed them part way in so that I could move the manifold a bit in order to insert the central tubes/rubber boots. I installed the LHS manifold next and the rear tube with solenoid & vacuum plumbing was already attached while I put the manifold into position. I then hooked up the vacuum connection at point C in my diagrams above. Then it was a case of inserting the 6 bolts and partially tightening them. Next was the installation of the front tube (without throttle attached). That was straight forward enough and once it was in place its a matter of tightening the 12 manifold bolts and then adjusting the position of the rubber boots for the tubes so that they are seated correctly on the tubes and on the manifolds before tightening the hose clamps. With the engine low there is no drama getting to the manifold bolts. You do most of them by feel and I inserted the rear manifold bolt by the AOS using an extendable magnetic rod in one hand whilst using the fingers of my other hand to guide the bolt into the hole (just to ensure no fumbled bolt).

Some of the tools/gear used in this job.

 

CV Joint bolts:

The easiest way I have found to get the CV bolts torqued back up is using the method shown in the pic. Here the axles are positively prevented from turning by a crowbar sitting between a pair of the wheel bolts. Applying the correct torque to the CV bolts is then much easier.

 

First Start Notes:

After getting the car back on the ground and ready to start I went through a checklist I had made (ie bolts torqued, fluids replaced, brakes  pumped etc). The car had been up on jacks for quite a while between the engine work and suspension work so I had already spotted a minor coolant leak from a hose before starting the engine. I had also wound the engine over several times by hand after doing the IMS to check for binding issues.

 

When I first started the car it took a few seconds for the fuel to prime and catch but it caught and ran on the first attempt. I had only planned to run it to warm it up (to begin the process of coolant bleeding) however I noticed a bit of a knocking sound from the motor after it had been running for 30 seconds or so. I let it run for about a minute and then shut it down for the night. There was no check engine light or codes thankfully. At that point though I was wondering about cam timing and I wished I had done a visual confirmation post IMS whilst the motor was out. In hindsight, I should have ordered some replacement cam inspection plugs and visually inspected the timing because if there had been a timing issue it would have been easier to adjust whilst everything was apart.

 

On first start I had expected some rough running and fumes while things settled down and various chemicals that had dripped onto the exhaust burned off. I also figured some engine noise would be expected since the engine had been drained of oil for quite some time and tensioners removed.

 

The next morning I checked for leaks underneath and nothing new had developed, I topped up the oil and coolant as the levels had dropped after being circulated through the engine. So I started her up again and she caught immediately and started with a nice bark from the exhaust. This time there was no knocking noise and I hung around at the rear having a close listen. The engine actually seems to be running very smooth, smoother than before the work began and I let her warm up to full temp.

 

The only other issue I had noted was that the revs were sitting a bit high at 1200rpm, this is a result of the throttle not returning to the stop as there appears to be a bit of tension on the accelerator cable. I'm not sure how that ended up happening since I ensured the accelerator cable was routed the same was as it was originally. However in the grand scheme of things that's pretty trivial.

 

 

 

Nov/Dec maintenance & upgrades

AOS replacement inc seals on AOS hoses

IMS replacement

RMS replacement

New Clutch / pressure plate & throw out bearing

Engine oil & filter change

Transmission oil change

Install M030 suspension inc new top mounts & bearings

Replace front & rear stabiliser links

Replace motor mounts with RS mounts

Replace coolant tank, cap and coolant.

Check & clean spark plugs & coil packs

Replace heat shields on cam covers

Replace brake lines with stainless steel, inc hard pipes.

Replace brake fluid with SRF

Replace brake cooling ducts with GT-3 items

Apply & install PSE hack to mufflers (1.5" bypass)

Replace misc seals, clamps, brackets and hardware.

28 Dec 2010 - Back on deck

       

 

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